Fanatec CSR Elite Hub Remake (1 Viewer)

[miagi]

I like my Fanatec CSR elite steering wheel, but the Hub that connects Steering wheel and base was always in for a steering wobble around the vertical axis. If I tightened the two screws, it was better, if the FFB rattle loosen em up, or some material was rubbed away, it got worse. That went for quite a long time until the first internal thread was damaged (the thread is in the left part on picture 1). From that point on, one screw was left to try prevent wobble, it was pathetic. The screws at least worked as a pin so the steering wheel couldn't get off the base, but it was pretty annoying to drive with that. I like the wheel and besides that it still works well, so I decided to fix it. Instead of fixing the badly construed hub (that is not a quick release), I was going to make a new one. My own, better, stronger, lighter, smarter.

First the old hub. It's two casting or pressure casting parts that get screwed on steering wheel and base fairly properly, but the connection between them is by form locking in rotation, with not the best tolerances and two screws going in it radial. It would need at least three radial screw connections to make it a somehow sensible connection.

The left part, goes into the plastic of the steering wheel, it is a bit weird. In the picture above the steering wheel would be left of the parts. The shaft on the left, where the screws are in, goes into the wheel but stops a few Millimetres before it makes contact, so that the friction fit is not at the shaft, it is a the collar. The collar sits on the plastic part of the wheel, and is pressed onto with the 4 screws.
Seeing that I tough, if that collar is the spot where the Torque is going from hub to wheel, I can simplify that. Replacing the shaft part of the wheel connector with 4 longer screws that also just press the collar on the plastic part. Instead of cutting threads, I use screws and nuts to put this two parts together. In the following CAD picture, the black ring is the plastic tube part of the steering wheel that I connect to. For the connection between the two new hub parts I just went with a simple flange. Making it two fairly simple turned parts with some drilling to be done. The green part is just a tube with a collar and a bottem to connect on the shaft of the base. With a whole thru it all for the cables and the plugs. I decided to make my hub a bit longer than the old one so there is more space between wheel and base for the monitor. The cables inside are long enough. At least 3 mm of material thickness is massive for this use case.

CAD:

I measured all the important lengths and especially pitch circle diameters and put it into the construction. Ordered a 80 mm EN AW 6082 (Aluminium) shaft. Made a technical drawing to use on the lathe machine and as the lockdown was softened, I went for it. Due to issues with the band saw I had to do way too much hand sawing for my taste. Sawing 80 mm of Aluminium is not much fun. Because of that trouble the final parts are not 100% exact to drawing but who cares, they are just a bit heavier as construed.


Turning process in a Nutshell:




It took way longer than I thought so I didn't had time to make pictures. Here is just one from the shop at the end of day 2 ._.

In the following two pictures are the finished parts and the screws + nuts necessary to connect it. Took nylon locking nuts, so nothing can come lose this time. Also a weight comparison to the stock bad bad hub connector thing. It's still lighter than the old. The screws to connect to the base stay the same, but in my construction I have enough space to add washers.

As everything was ready and even did fit together, yes I was surprised too as I expected, it was time for assembly. In the following pictures the parts come together.

Back of the steering wheel. The plate mounted on, screws not yet tightened!

Front of the wheel with the option to tighten the screws thru the wheel-plate. Comes handy.

Base Part connected

Base part look inside

How it comes together

et voilà

Now finally also the Hub of this product is elite

For the Wheel Plate I used M4x50 screws
Drawings for a D70 Shaft:
part1
part2

 

[m4nu]

Holy sh**. It looks so nice <3

 

[UnstopaPaul]

That is great work. I wish I had

a) the equipment
b) the time
c) the skills

 

[Mark]

Very nice Miagi, what a great solution and mod to make.

I’ve modded mine slightly too (changed the rim to a ‘LMP’ due to the original becoming a chew toy for my daughter and destroying the coating) however to solve this particular issue all i did was pack it out with cardboard. What a bodge compared to this. Fancy making another maybe?

 

[miagi]

Thank you. The engineering was fun, the handcrafting was troublesome. Not really looking forward to do that again, but if it helps keep a wheel alive I might do it. But not before the band saw is repaired, I'm not gonna saw this sh** (twice) by hand again and also the shop is restricted to only a few persons atm, so not sure when I visit again. But what do you need?

Btw. if you need new "coating" I can recommend tesa wiring harness tape for that.

 

[Mark]

Ah no worries if it’s hassle bud. I’d be happy to do the handcraft myself if so but to be honest mine is secure for now. Just really appreciate the thought you’ve put into creating that and really sorting out that particular weakness.

Thanks very much for the link to that tape. I will order some up and restore the original wheel incase I ever decide to sell and upgrade.

 

[miagi]

I can add the drawings as pdf, if you have access to a lathe machine, those are two simple parts the roughing takes some time.

 

[Mark]

That indeed would be mighty fine if you if you wouldn’t mind. Not sure how I could repay the favour though

 

[miagi]

With the knowledge of the first prototype I adjusted the construction and drawings a little. Made it for a D70 shaft, I bought a D80 shaft before the construction was started as the shipping time for the material was ~2 weeks or so. 80 was surely a safe bet and it is okay, but 70 is the more material and time efficient pick if you start fresh. The new hub is a opportunity to set the distance between wheel and base new. I included 3 lengths in the drawing. Most measures have very easy tolerances, just the fit to the wheel and base-shaft need some precision or luck and the D33 to fit both parts you can also check by fitting the first part and see how it is. And watch out with the bore holes, if they are badly positioned to each other, your steering wheel will not sit straight at the centre. So if you calibrate it into the center, you lose some steering angle to full lock.

Maybe measureing the shaft of your base and the opening in your steering wheel would be smart, never know if there were different revisions :X

Added drawings to #1

 

[Mark]

Thanks very much Miagi, very generous Of you to share your work with us. I’ll give it a go.