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- Sep 16, 2016
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Hey,
during extended racing session I've coming across heat-induced FFB-fading with my T300RS wheelbase. Browsing the net for solutions gave me plenty of options. But instead of sticking to approaches with rewiring, heavy soldering and substantially reworking the top cover I came up with a solution that is minimally invasive and even can be undone easily. What you get for around 35 € is a wheelbase that can sustain maximum FFB, never fades regarding FFB-strength and that turns off the fans way earlier than with the stock cooler alone.
However, I'd like to point out that - because of the way the original fan mount is marked with red glue - you'll probably void your warranty! So you might only apply modifications after your warranty has expired!
Parts list
2x Noctua NF-A6x25 PWM
Notes on the fan choice: The stock fan is a truly shitty Chiefly CC 6015S12M (http://www.chiefly-choice.com/fans/uploads/122939245975j0n.pdf) with sleeve bearings (which can also leak). It’s rated 12 V/0.24 A/2.88 W. These are about the specs I’d define as upper limit for replacement fan(s) and here is where the NF-A6x25 PWM come into play (12 V/0.08 A/0.96 W per fan). They are safe to use – even without knowing what the PSU could deliver and what the circuitry would allow for. Each of the Noctua fans moves 50 % more air volume than the stock cooler at lower noise level. One could argue to go for the non-PWM NF-A6x25 FLX but these are rated 12 V/0.12 A/1.44 W per unit with the rest of the specs being the same. Also the FLX version doesn’t include a Y-cable which you’ll need. Prices for both PWM and FLX are roughly the same. The dimensions are 60x60x25 which is the maximum you can fit into the case without reworking it. Just pick your fan model according to those specs.
1x 2-Pin to 3-Pin fan adapter for a few bucks (https://www.caseking.de/en/kolink-luefter-adapterkabel-2-pin-zu-3-pin-molex-zuad-176.html) Or just cannibalize the plug from the stock fan and solder it to one of the extension cables that come with the fans. You only need GRD (black) and +12V (red). Be aware that the 2-pin plug is not JST form factor (used in Logitech wheels, for instance) but the type you normally find on graphics cards.
Some cable ties or insulated binding wire
Optional
Tools to cut venting openings into the case
Mesh material (or cheap fly screen) to cover the openings, some tape or hot glue to install it
Step 1 - Opening the case (search YT for video footage if necessary)
Remove the rim, unscrew the plastic ring around the "steering column" (4x), remove the screws that hold the top cover in place (8x). Don't go crazy on the screws - these are made from cheap-ass material.
Step 2 - Unplug the stock fan
Don't pull the wire but gently work the plug out of the socket - you might wan't to cannibalize the plug later for your adapter.
Step 3 - Remove the stock fan
Just unscrew it with together with the bracket.
Step 4 - Install replacement fans
Use the bracket for one of the Nocta fans (they have the same dimensions except for depth). Install the fans as shown in the photo in Push-Pull-direction to create airflow. That's important since - from my testing - existing airflow beats a Push-Push-configuration. Only Push-Pull ensures that (some) hot air can leave the case. From my testing, even the small venting slits are enough to avoid FFB-fading if you install the fans in Push-Pull. The Base still heats up – far less than in stock config, though. Connect both the fans to the included Y-cable, connect the Y-cable to your 2-pin to 3-pin adapter. Run the cables as you like and use cable ties if necessary.
Step 5 - Rework the top cover
To maximize the effect cut vent holes into the side portions of the case. Cover all the small vent slots at the top of the case with tape. You’ll receive two benefits: the airflow is more focused and therefore more effective and the noise level will also go down even more.
Step 6 – Decide for fan mode
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00156.pdf (I prefer the 'always-on' mode)
Maybe it's of interest for you guys.
during extended racing session I've coming across heat-induced FFB-fading with my T300RS wheelbase. Browsing the net for solutions gave me plenty of options. But instead of sticking to approaches with rewiring, heavy soldering and substantially reworking the top cover I came up with a solution that is minimally invasive and even can be undone easily. What you get for around 35 € is a wheelbase that can sustain maximum FFB, never fades regarding FFB-strength and that turns off the fans way earlier than with the stock cooler alone.
However, I'd like to point out that - because of the way the original fan mount is marked with red glue - you'll probably void your warranty! So you might only apply modifications after your warranty has expired!
Parts list
2x Noctua NF-A6x25 PWM
Notes on the fan choice: The stock fan is a truly shitty Chiefly CC 6015S12M (http://www.chiefly-choice.com/fans/uploads/122939245975j0n.pdf) with sleeve bearings (which can also leak). It’s rated 12 V/0.24 A/2.88 W. These are about the specs I’d define as upper limit for replacement fan(s) and here is where the NF-A6x25 PWM come into play (12 V/0.08 A/0.96 W per fan). They are safe to use – even without knowing what the PSU could deliver and what the circuitry would allow for. Each of the Noctua fans moves 50 % more air volume than the stock cooler at lower noise level. One could argue to go for the non-PWM NF-A6x25 FLX but these are rated 12 V/0.12 A/1.44 W per unit with the rest of the specs being the same. Also the FLX version doesn’t include a Y-cable which you’ll need. Prices for both PWM and FLX are roughly the same. The dimensions are 60x60x25 which is the maximum you can fit into the case without reworking it. Just pick your fan model according to those specs.
1x 2-Pin to 3-Pin fan adapter for a few bucks (https://www.caseking.de/en/kolink-luefter-adapterkabel-2-pin-zu-3-pin-molex-zuad-176.html) Or just cannibalize the plug from the stock fan and solder it to one of the extension cables that come with the fans. You only need GRD (black) and +12V (red). Be aware that the 2-pin plug is not JST form factor (used in Logitech wheels, for instance) but the type you normally find on graphics cards.
Some cable ties or insulated binding wire
Optional
Tools to cut venting openings into the case
Mesh material (or cheap fly screen) to cover the openings, some tape or hot glue to install it
Step 1 - Opening the case (search YT for video footage if necessary)
Remove the rim, unscrew the plastic ring around the "steering column" (4x), remove the screws that hold the top cover in place (8x). Don't go crazy on the screws - these are made from cheap-ass material.
Step 2 - Unplug the stock fan
Don't pull the wire but gently work the plug out of the socket - you might wan't to cannibalize the plug later for your adapter.
Step 3 - Remove the stock fan
Just unscrew it with together with the bracket.
Step 4 - Install replacement fans
Use the bracket for one of the Nocta fans (they have the same dimensions except for depth). Install the fans as shown in the photo in Push-Pull-direction to create airflow. That's important since - from my testing - existing airflow beats a Push-Push-configuration. Only Push-Pull ensures that (some) hot air can leave the case. From my testing, even the small venting slits are enough to avoid FFB-fading if you install the fans in Push-Pull. The Base still heats up – far less than in stock config, though. Connect both the fans to the included Y-cable, connect the Y-cable to your 2-pin to 3-pin adapter. Run the cables as you like and use cable ties if necessary.
Step 5 - Rework the top cover
To maximize the effect cut vent holes into the side portions of the case. Cover all the small vent slots at the top of the case with tape. You’ll receive two benefits: the airflow is more focused and therefore more effective and the noise level will also go down even more.
Step 6 – Decide for fan mode
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00156.pdf (I prefer the 'always-on' mode)
Maybe it's of interest for you guys.
