Split 2 - General Chat (1 Viewer)

[UnstopaPaul]

If you have buttons left, you can map brake bias up and down directly to the wheel or if available, a button box

It's now on my plan for the button box I will be making as a pet project. I probably would have had it on there just to have a "turny knob", but now I'm going to feel its actually required

 

[Ranjanado]

But the Pista is brand new... Would be awesome to have that ingame later on.

are you sure it was not meant to be Pasta!!!

 

[SteveO916]

are you sure it was not meant to be Pasta!!!

looks like ita certainly get pasta ze other cars quite easy....

 

[The Breeze]

It's now on my plan for the button box I will be making as a pet project. I probably would have had it on there just to have a "turny knob", but now I'm going to feel its actually required

I assigned brake bias to the scroll weel of my Logitech g29 wheel. A button box seems to be something useful for me to. Assuming I can use a numeric pad for that...or does that interfere with the buttons on my keyboard?

 

[Jamesl91]

I assigned brake bias to the scroll weel of my Logitech g29 wheel. A button box seems to be something useful for me to. Assuming I can use a numeric pad for that...or does that interfere with the buttons on my keyboard?

I use the Rotary wheel of my G29 too, Simple because i use the Up/down buttons for other things. I normally tweak my BB through the ICM as its easier.

 

[SteveO916]

I assigned brake bias to the scroll weel of my Logitech g29 wheel. A button box seems to be something useful for me to. Assuming I can use a numeric pad for that...or does that interfere with the buttons on my keyboard?

no it won't interfere..I use a num pad as a button box...

Spoiler

i find nothing about the ICM easy as I can't see it as my wheel blocks it so I have to lean around the wheel to see it (and invariably crash..)

 

[Jamesl91]

great thanks. I never really considered that it wasn't only for conditions. I've been nervous of distracting myself using the ICM, but maybe I should practice tweaking a bit more so I get comfortable.

Its always worth getting used to using the ICM, it opens a lot more strategy options too. you can adjust your pit strategy on track should you have damage you can enable damage repair etc. I would also recommend you check your pit strategy in the ICM before pitting, this is the downfall of a lot of people during the race as they forget to set the custom strategy as the default before the race.

 

[Fatih Kursat]

no it won't interfere..I use a num pad as a button box...

Spoiler

View attachment 3722

i find nothing about the ICM easy as I can't see it as my wheel blocks it so I have to lean around the wheel to see it (and invariably crash..)

that's the way, i like it.

 

[FuBii]

The reason I hate using the ICM, I have to use the d-pad, which means I can't steer & work it simultaneously.

 

[Mearcat]

A remark to the lock ups: as soon as you are within say 3-5 tenths of another car the GTE machines lose front downforce which makes the fronts lock up easier. You not only have to adjust your braking point then but also your brake pressure on the pedal. Shifting the brake bias one click to the rear can help a bit too.

12 % front suspension damage from T1 was more the cause of mine mistake as the lockup was sudden and with very light pressure. Once pitted and repaired miraculously I didn't lock up when in a draft after that. I found the loss of grip effected steering more than braking as I let of pressure to get the wheels to turn but the front end didn't move just went straight on and made 2 cars into 1. Also the reason I slid off chasing a corvette.

This has been more of a learning curve for a lot of people, new and experienced.

Round a track I am constantly shifting the bias front and back as each corner is different. I didn't put that many dials in the wheel for nothing, wait til you start shifting the anti-roll bars round as well .

 

[Jamesl91]

12 % front suspension damage from T1 was more the cause of mine mistake as the lockup was sudden and with very light pressure. Once pitted and repaired miraculously I didn't lock up when in a draft after that. I found the loss of grip effected steering more than braking as I let of pressure to get the wheels to turn but the front end didn't move just went straight on and made 2 cars into 1. Also the reason I slid off chasing a corvette.

This has been more of a learning curve for a lot of people, new and experienced.

Round a track I am constantly shifting the bias front and back as each corner is different. I didn't put that many dials in the wheel for nothing, wait til you start shifting the anti-roll bars round as well .

How have you got time to do all that? I literally only change my BB when i have to otherwise i drive with same through out the race

 

[Mearcat]

"I AM GOD!!!!!!!"

Not really, it's just practice.

Long straights you've got from power on to do adjustments ready for the next one. Chains of corners you make the adjustment before the first turn and keep the settings through the rest of the turns (eg ascari).

eg Parabolica exit to T1 thats a good 20 seconds to shift bias 50/50 and stiffen the AR, T4 & 5 keep the same as its another tight S. Lesmos quick bias shift to the fronts about 58/42 soften rear ARB a little and so on.

As for buttons I used to use the D pad on the G27 shifter for roll bars and the top and bottom black buttons for bias.

 

[FuBii]

@t0daY I like the sound of the license new system.
That is all =D
Enjoy the rest of your night.
feel free to remove this post haha

 

[m4nu]

@t0daY I like the sound of the new system.
That is all =D
Enjoy the rest of your night.
feel free to remove this post haha

Eh what

 

[UnstopaPaul]

12 % front suspension damage from T1 was more the cause of mine mistake as the lockup was sudden and with very light pressure. Once pitted and repaired miraculously I didn't lock up when in a draft after that. I found the loss of grip effected steering more than braking as I let of pressure to get the wheels to turn but the front end didn't move just went straight on and made 2 cars into 1. Also the reason I slid off chasing a corvette.

I'm pretty certain this is exactly how I managed to slide off on the second chicane, leading to some poor soul smashing into the side of me an removing my rear wing (very much not their fault). I've couple this learning with a better understanding of breaking under asymmetric tyre camber setup. I'd only ever practiced with the aero in full repair, so braking hard with damaged aero lead to my car "spinning in a straight line". Something I'd never experienced before. It's something I'm going to be very aware of next time I have an asymmetrical setup.

 

[Mearcat]

I'm pretty certain this is exactly how I managed to slide off on the second chicane, leading to some poor soul smashing into the side of me an removing my rear wing (very much not their fault).

Yep, I must add though yours will of been much more pronounced as your car was already damaged aero wise if I read your above correct.

Mine didn't have aero damage till it slid into the other car. I too had an asymmetric setup throughout the suspension, except dampers and didn't experience straightline instability, so spinning in a straight line I've not had either.

I have found through recent testing however even the slightest (6 front right suspension damage and 11 front aero) is enough to double fuel consumption and almost triple tyre ware in PC2. I don't know why but it is almost like most of the cars are set to be as fragile as open wheelers.

So advice here is avoid damage at all costs, even if you want to overtake someone and can only do it through risky maneuvers, Don't, wait for a good opening (good draft/mistake). And if you do get damage, pit ASAP for repairs otherwise you'll kill your engine from thirst.

 

[Jamesl91]

Yep, I must add though yours will of been much more pronounced as your car was already damaged aero wise if I read your above correct.

Mine didn't have aero damage till it slid into the other car. I too had an asymmetric setup throughout the suspension, except dampers and didn't experience straightline instability, so spinning in a straight line I've not had either.

I have found through recent testing however even the slightest (6 front right suspension damage and 11 front aero) is enough to double fuel consumption and almost triple tyre ware in PC2. I don't know why but it is almost like most of the cars are set to be as fragile as open wheelers.

So advice here is avoid damage at all costs, even if you want to overtake someone and can only do it through risky maneuvers, Don't, wait for a good opening (good draft/mistake). And if you do get damage, pit ASAP for repairs otherwise you'll kill your engine from thirst.

I wil ad even further to that, to get passed someone you don’t actually have to overtake them on track, if you are quicker you can try the undercut or overcut at the pitstops. You can also try sitting behind them and waiting for them to crack under the pressure.

 

[Stokemon]

Happy pi day split 2

 

[FuBii]

wheres the pie?
Dunno if anyone's started practising for Sakitto yet, but the best I can get on race fuel is 1.42.550 though my potential says 1.40.890 . I think the games rates me too highly.
I need to find a way to make the car less twitchy, I don't have the confidence to throw it into a corner without it either understeering like a boat or swapping ends over a bump.

 

[Michael]

wheres the pie?
Dunno if anyone's started practising for Sakitto yet, but the best I can get on race fuel is 1.42.550 though my potential says 1.40.890 . I think the games rates me too highly.
I need to find a way to make the car less twitchy, I don't have the confidence to throw it into a corner without it either understeering like a boat or swapping ends over a bump.

I know you are very skilled with your controller, but what about upgrading to a wheel and a Playseat Challenge.