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InsaneBase

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Eh, I would call being able to mix in Seat of Pants stuff canned effects, because my wheel usually can't tell me what my ass is feeling.
 

Puffpirat

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But iRacings feedback is way to numb, trust me I'm an engineer :p
 

InsaneBase

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Have you set up a forceMap.csv for iRacing?
 

Puffpirat

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No I have not, please tell me there is something to make it better. Out of the box I don't like it.
 

InsaneBase

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I rest my case, your honor. :p

Without it, FFB in iRacing felt stupid and numb, to me, too - and cars were basically gone when they got a tiny bit loose.

With it, I drift the Ford GT2 as if I was Kenneth Blockington, jr's only slightly inept cousin.

Read everything about it here: http://edracing.com/edr/Logitech_G27.php#g27wheelProfile

Scroll down a little to the "Create your own wheel profile - using Wheel Check." part.
 

Puffpirat

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some of that is interesting, some ultra confusing..

"you don't need to use linear mode unless you have a fancy wheel" but I shall buy a scale to measure my wheel and create a correction map? xD

I'll give the file a shot anyway ;)
 

InsaneBase

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You don't really need to buy a scale, unless you have a Fanatec Wheel. And then the use is debatable, because supposedly the Fanatec output linearity is pretty good. (I'd still do it for science, but I know I'm weird.)

If you have a DD wheel you don't need to do any of this, but then again, DD users never had a problem with iRacings FFB, anyway. Unless they were useless douchenozzles who didn't know that you have to adapt FFB strength per car and track.
 

Puffpirat

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Ok I tested it and, after also looking at the file for the CSW v2 I have, it did what I expected, blew up the min forces a bit, that's cool. But I'm still missing detail, can't really feel what the front is doing, pCARS FFB is just a lot more communicative than iRacings. Call it a personal thing...
 

ramiboo

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@Puffpirat, @InsaneBase, I'll catch you online soon as I need you to force my brain to understand the last few posts. I'm with puffi at the moment, I need to feel the transition to understeer and oversteer easier. PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!! :(
 

Puffpirat

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Sadly, the only thing the file does, is correct the output of the game to the way your wheel responds. Sadly,because that doesn't change the feel e.g. for an oversteer to understeer transition.

What it does is following. Logitech wheels tend to have a S-bend in the force output. So when the game sends 10% force, you get like 2% reaction on the wheel, 30% game could be 15% at the wheel, while at higher forces the reaction of the wheel is actually higher than the game output. When you plot the force of game vs force of wheel you get this S-bend.

The file tries to account for that, amplifying lower forces, while reducing higher forces, to give you a linear force output, equaling what the game sends.

A CSW v2 with DRI set to off is linear, 10% force from the game is 10% force on the wheel and so on. I do use the file now though, because it seems to have been created with DRI set to 2 or 3, I use DRI at 2 currently. With this setting the wheel feels less spongy because it counters the internal drag, but it also makes the force output slightly non-linear. The file amplifies the forces up to 20% game output, which seems to bring out some more detail :)

What you can do with this force map is create car specific files. I want to try this with the HPD because in Le Mans at Porsche Curves I was fighting a high flat force while in the slower corners the wheel was very light. You could change the force map to amplify lower forces even more while getting the peak force to an acceptable level.
 

ramiboo

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Puffi said some very intelligent things
This is awesome and I would love to benefit from your hard work..... :p

I struggle with FFB in games, I can't seem to analyse what my wheel is and isn't telling, I just know when something is hard to drive because you can't feel what happening and when something is very communicative. I was really struggling in the braking zones and slow corners, and now you say it, the high speed Porsche curves the car would go from planted to oversteer and my wheel just felt like there was a dead spot. There was 0 clipping, in fact quite a way off clipping. I wonder if I need to up the car force and reduce the wheel force to make sure I get all the detail out the game.......
 

InsaneBase

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You know that iRacing nowadays calculates the ingame FFB strength for you?

Just drive a couple of laps with the car/track you want to drive, wait till the button appears in the F8(?) box and KAZOOOOM. Correct FFB strength for that car/track combo.

The rest like the force curve setup is a little more finicky as iRacing just hates usability, but still...
 

Puffpirat

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This is awesome and I would love to benefit from your hard work..... :p

I struggle with FFB in games, I can't seem to analyse what my wheel is and isn't telling, I just know when something is hard to drive because you can't feel what happening and when something is very communicative. I was really struggling in the braking zones and slow corners, and now you say it, the high speed Porsche curves the car would go from planted to oversteer and my wheel just felt like there was a dead spot. There was 0 clipping, in fact quite a way off clipping. I wonder if I need to up the car force and reduce the wheel force to make sure I get all the detail out the game.......
lol at the quote :jimlad:

That's actually working what you suggest! Before the force map I tried FOR on the wheel at 70-80 and higher ingame forces and it did feel more detailed, but it still had the strong difference between high and low speed corners. Together with the force map file we could actually get where we want! :)
You know that iRacing nowadays calculates the ingame FFB strength for you?

Just drive a couple of laps with the car/track you want to drive, wait till the button appears in the F8(?) box and KAZOOOOM. Correct FFB strength for that car/track combo.

The rest like the force curve setup is a little more finicky as iRacing just hates usability, but still...
I read about this feature and will give it a shot, even though it's detail not peak force that's my problem. I appreciate your suggestion though, still getting used to iRacing and using every help I can get ;)
 

m4nu

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Had some awesome fun with the Skip Barbers :) :) 3 races, 2x 3rd and 1x 1st muhahaha from 2000 irating to nearly 2300. Watkins Glen is just amazing <3

 

2scoops

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Stopped racing the Skippy because it doesnt count towards improving your licence, great fun though. Watkins Glen with the Advanced Mazda MX5 too, using that and the FR2.0 to get my irating up to B licence, well that's the plan anyway, have to avoid the idiots crashing though which has cost me sometimes. It annoys me when you get done for someone crashing into you, but I know there is no way to distinguish. No RSR rules here lol

We should create our own RSR league on iRacing, there's more and more of us in iRacing now.
 

m4nu

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Stopped racing the Skippy because it doesnt count towards improving your licence, great fun though. Watkins Glen with the Advanced Mazda MX5 too, using that and the FR2.0 to get my irating up to B licence, well that's the plan anyway, have to avoid the idiots crashing though which has cost me sometimes. It annoys me when you get done for someone crashing into you, but I know there is no way to distinguish. No RSR rules here lol

We should create our own RSR league on iRacing, there's more and more of us in iRacing now.

We stick to the big endurance races :) Leagues are very expensive in iRacing and we got enoug work with Project Cars and at some point with Project Cars 2 :p
 

ramiboo

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Laiders

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Stopped racing the Skippy because it doesnt count towards improving your licence, great fun though. Watkins Glen with the Advanced Mazda MX5 too, using that and the FR2.0 to get my irating up to B licence, well that's the plan anyway, have to avoid the idiots crashing though which has cost me sometimes. It annoys me when you get done for someone crashing into you, but I know there is no way to distinguish. No RSR rules here lol

We should create our own RSR league on iRacing, there's more and more of us in iRacing now.

You only have to do 4 races (or TT) with a class C car to get your MPR complete (per season) to be able to upgrade. For gaining SR it doesn't matter what class the car is, you'll gain a lot more and get to B faster racing the Skippy cleanly than getting into a FR/GT3 wreckfest.

Also if it you've got a low iRating then the first thing to do is work on that with some decent finishes to get you away from the lower splits.
 

Puffpirat

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